LOST IN SPICE</I> - 2004-08-27

Change is coming quickly to Zanzibar. Stone Town's best buildings are being restored gradually, often with aid from the Aga Khan's foundation, which pours money into Tanzania. The repainted Ismaili Dispensary is now a cultural centre. The House of Wonders was the biggest building in East Africa and had Africa's first lift when it was built in 1883 as a ceremonial centre by the third sultan. Now the national museum, it is worth visiting just for its intricate doors. Next door the Arab fort is an open forum for food and music.